During my last trip to Egypt I visited Dahshur and, as I always do, looked across the desert to the so-called "Black Pyramid".

It's a familiar view to anyone who's been to Dahshur. Even with a telephoto the Pyramid tends to remains a bit lost in the "Blue distance".



It's much later than the two stone built pyramids of Snefru but still an imposing structure. It was built by Amenemhat III in the Middle Kingdom. I've always wanted to visit it but was told that the site was closed and that it wasn't possible.

However there didn't seem to be anyone around and I couldn't see why I shouldn't walk as it didn't look too far. So I set off across the desert. It was also an opportunity to have a look at the remains of the temple excavated by Fakhry that's on the line of the Bent Pyramid's causeway. It's not thought to be a Valley Temple now as further remains have been found further down at what would have been the Nile.





It's the place where Fakhry found the striking statue of Snefru.



I continued and was about half way to the Black Pyramid when I heard a shout and turning around I saw a guard on a camel approaching at speed. He told me that I couldn't continue and despite my pleas I had to turn back.

I returned to the Bent Pyramid and my taxi. But I knew that in Egypt most things are possible if you find the person in charge and "negotiate". So I found a senior looking individual and asked about getting to the Black Pyramid. He said it was too far to walk and anyway it was closed. I said I was perfectly happy to walk if he would let me. After a while and some inevitable baksheesh he agreed to let me go and told the guards not to stop me.

So I set off again and this time reached the Pyramid after about 20 minutes. The dark mud-bricks which give it its name are very evident and make an impressive site. There are examples all over the place and it's obvious that the pyramid is slowly eroding.









It would have been nice to identify the place where de Mordan found the famous statue of Hor-Awibra now in the Cairo Museum. But despite fairly clear outlines visible on satellite photos I could not make out anything on the ground (except sand).



The entrance to the pyramid which was on the Southeast Corner is also hidden.

It's the sort of thing I love. Just me and a pyramid and the time to explore and take photographs undisturbed. The walk back was also interesting with the Bent Pyramid in front of me and Red over to my right. A perfect afternoon stroll.



Jon

www.egyptarchive.co.uk